New blog...

The end has come for Nearly Incompletely.

Don't dispair, there's a new blog from me coming in 2011, on New Years Day at 12am.

Good Times For a Change

That's where I'll be. Follow what I say.

Thanks for reading.

The End...?

Not for this blog! For the year fool!

It might have blown past some of us. It was filled with good times and bad alike. You can't forget everything no matter how bad they were. Don't be a bitch and deal with it.

This year was brought to you by...

Failure and Success. Criticizing and learning from the criticism. The letter F. For Fools, Fuck Your Face, and those "In Your Face!" moments.

See you in 2011 mother-fuckers!

Mickey's Beach + Photos from the past couple of days

Thursday was the last dry day for awhile. The rain is currently pissing down on the Bay Area and the entire coast (so I've heard).

Will, Bryan, and myself went out to Mickeys for the day. Bryan has never been so it was a good day as any other to get some climbing done. Or try to at least. The north side of the boulder was wet from the previous rains. Bryan did mange a good go on the easy sit near Bound By Tension, but came within a hair of sending. He was psyched none the less and really, that's all that matter that day. The temps were perfect but the wind made it feel colder. It was hard as hell to warm up and having a bum toe didn't help either. But we managed and pushed on. Will is hellbent on Orange Buddha Arete. He's put in four days of effort on this thing. Granted it's not the BEST problem in the world or the most photogenic, but he's put in too much effort to give up. I really enjoy climbing with him and Bryan. No pressure, no "I have to do this before you or I'm bummed" that I get with some others I have climbed with in the past outside.

Nothing.

We crack jokes all day long and don't give a fuck. Yes, we want to do the problems. But we wont be bummed if we don't. More like we wont let it get to us or mope about it on the drive home.

Anyways, here's some pictures I took this week and last (I think last week...I can't remember).

Pissing rain

"I am so cold. So very very cold. SOOOOOOO COOOOOOOLD! Thank You."

©Will Rathavongsa

©Will Rathavongsa

Bryan Creed

©Will Rathavongsa

Dave and the new FIVE TEN shoes

Will

Chris Bloch doing something hard in the cave

Nothing to see here, move along folks

Another couple of weeks without an update. I should find some things to do so I have something to update on. Route setting? Yawn. Climbing? Once I go on a trip again and take pictures. Hopefully I'll be making it to Bishop these coming months. That would be optimal. Or Mortar Rock again. Castle too. Mickeys.

SHIT! Anywhere. I would like to climb outside. Bishop would be optimal since I have a lot of....well I would say unfinished business but in reality, I've barely even started. I have climbs I've tried that I would like to do now that I'm a little bit stronger and older. And have leveled off the swearing to a minimum. That's helped a lot.

Every year I think, "I'm strong, I got this," then I get frustrated at why I chuff on things I THINK I can do. Come next year I think, 'What the fuck was I thinking then? I sucked!'

Maybe I need a short, mid, long term goal list so I have something to reach for. I don't train. My "training" consists of climbing a lot. I don't campus, I don't run or do ring workouts. I don't do conditioning or pull ups. Motivation for that is low. I used to on a climbing team. Working out a new system should be helpful and I should take this rest time to devise a plan to put into action effective immediately.

What's Happening

Two weeks have gone by. Us route setters at Bridges Rock Gym have reset the backside of the South Boulder on Tuesday November 30, 2010. The total amount of route setters at any given time should not exceed 6. That has proven to be the magic number in terms of having ladder space, wall space, holds, and bolts.

There are 30 brand new problems V0-V7 that will help keep you occupied till the 21st of this month (December) when we reset the North Corridor and on the 28th when we reset the West Wall. If you haven't already though, there are a ton of cave problems that are hard and the east face of the North Boulder. 

The past two weeks I have been climbing solely at Bridges after being sick for a week. I feel light and strong. It's a big confidence boost and sparked a new "training" program that benefits me. It goes something like this....

1) Don't get into other people's business unless they tell you about it

  a) Unless you could care less

2) Climb, a lot

That's about it. It seems to be working for me and my head. I feel focused and motivated to try harder things. Some nights I'll go and project (okay, MOST nights I do that). Other nights I'll repeat all the problems of a certain set. The new set on the South Boulder is PRIME to do just that. Repeating things doesn't have to be boring. If you set a time limit on how quickly you'd like to do it, then it gets your ass moving. I didn't have a time limit and I had to rest longer because my left big toe is in a slight amount of pain, but I worked out that I did 30 problems in under two hours (with rest time). That's about a problem every four minutes or so. Seems slow. I bet I can go faster. We shall see.

But that is my new "training" program. I don't train or do anything special like normal people or how I used to when I was on a climbing team. Partly due to the fact we don't have a lot of weight equipment (i.e. pull up bars...those things). Guess I'm gonna improvise. But the campus board is ready to be put to use. So get your asses into Bridges Rock Gym in El Cerrito. You will NOT, be disappointed.

And if you are...TOUGH SHIT SON!

Back again

So far, the weather has been freezing. From pissing rain, to freezing. Ah the great outdoors. It doesn't get any better than this.

It's been prime conditions to train after being sick. And while it's freezing cold outside and I don't feel like getting sick again, I'm spending my time inside at Bridges climbing on the 64 new problems we set two weeks ago on the North Boulder and in the Cave. It feels good to climb a lot in little amounts of time. Four hour sessions feel like six hour sessions. I feel like I try a shit-load within my sessions. And that to me, is a success (at least for inside).

Also, I forgot to mention. Actually...no I didn't forget. I just didn't mention....wait, that means I forgot to mention...yes, no, yes...okay. Yeah, I cut my hair. I don't have any pictures of it because I'm not a narcissistic freak and take pictures of myself (but wait, I have a blog.. so that statement is invalid...). It's been since November 2nd, 2010 that Operation: Return to Society has been in effect. It's nice. I don't get profiled by cops anymore coming home late at night from BART.

...Or anywhere else anymore.

Late Late Late Edition

So much time has passed. Not much has passed along with the time though.We did however reset TWICE last week at Bridges.

Once on the North Boulder

And then again in the Cave

The only reasonable explanation I can give for not updating sooner is...I got sick. Don't understand what it was, but it knocked me out for four days. Tomorrow I should be good to go and start climbing again on the new stuff at Bridges. All 64 new problems. Maybe get somewhere. I hear there is a storm coming in...not good?

Because failure is not an option

I hear so many people say that projecting a route or problem isn't them. It's time consuming and frustrating to not do a move.

Yes. I have been in that mentality before. Getting frustrated sucks. Believe you me...or something like that. But as of lately. And by that I mean since June of 2010. I haven't been giving up on problems as easily as I have before. Granted there are some that I have said no more on due the to fact that I will just become even more frustrated by not executing a move and yelling and swearing. I'd rather not swear and yell than to get frustrated and pissed off at my inability to execute a move.

But the point is that many people get distracted by other climbs and never come back to do something they were close on, simply because they got bored with projecting it. They've done the bottom sequence over and over and over, yet get shut down at one or two moves continuously. If you want to give up, fine. But you're going to be thinking about it until you do the route or problem.

I'm not saying you should ONLY project things to death. You should find things that you want to climb, try them, and if you can't do them right then and there, save your energy and come back the next time and get on it. It's simple. You have nothing else to do.

Failure by giving up and moving on because you got shut down is not an option.

Failure is not an option.

Route Setting Update 10/19

Yesterday (October 19, 2010) the West Wall got a fresh new reset. With the last set being slightly easier than we anticipated, we stepped it up and gave the public (that's you reading this) some challenging problems. Not just one. Not two challenges. How does 35 brand spanking new boulder problems from VB - V9 sound? Yeah, that's right I said 35.


"Stick a fork in it cause you KILLED it". 

Ladders are erected

Long...

...and hard.

Get in and do them.

Dave Graham bitches!

Growing up and reading in the magazines about this guy from Maine and how he and a posse were just tearing through shit on the east coast and Europe and Colorado, Dave has always been a source for finding my own way to do a problem. Some times you forget that  and you get frustrated. Your mind starts to think "Well shit, you're weak. You can not do this move or grab that hold this way." It breaks your confidence and I believe is such an integral part to climbing. If you're not confident you won't do what you want.

Dave Graham might talk a mile a minute but if you really listen, it makes sense (at least to me). This thirty minute discussion is rad.

Route Setting Update 10/12

Some days, route setting is easy. Creative juices are flowing (I may want to rephrase that later....), you feel strong and on top of your game. Then it gets sweltering.

That's when one of the easy days, becomes exhausting.

Today was the North Corridor. With just a crew of five people (Chris, Dylan, Wendy, Cyril, and myself) to throw up six problems each (with the exception of Cyril throwing up eight because he's a beast), the task was set before us. After a staff meeting, we stripped the corridor quickly and swiftly. Stripped hold beware: we will hunt you down and take you out, BY ANY MEANS NECESSARY.

The heat never really hit us until forerunning. What is usually the easiest and quickest section to set and forerun, caught us off guard and tested us. Just goes to show that if this stuff was easy we'd be bored out of our minds,

A total of 31 problems VB to V6 went up today. Nothing too hard just yet.

North Corridor or the Corridor

The short wall.

Mellowing back out

I took a one week trip to Hawaii this year, August 2010. Being mellowed out from just one week was something I had never really experienced here at home. Everyone here on the mainland is always in a constant state of perpetual motion it seems like. Going without stopping, making money and not having time for others. All these things, are nice I find, really FUCK with my system. I can't just go go go all the time. People here are into themselves and if you break the trend of going and being rude, you get weird stares and people are caught off guard.

When I was over on Oahu for seven days I didn't swear.

Uh....what??

It's hard for me to believe my self. I wasn't pissed off. Motivation to do anything was never lost. And climbing with people, who really did not care about the outcome as a lot of people here do, was amazing. I constantly feel that a lot of people have their own agendas in life. Good for you. Get what you want, but don't screw others in the process or make situations about JUST you. Think of others (something I need to keep in the forefront of my head). When I traveled there, I didn't feel like I was a tourist. I specifically distinguished myself from that. I stayed out of Waikiki (except for two times. Once to check it out, the other time to go back to a beach I had been to before). I went to beaches unpopulated near Ka'ena Point and saw the moon rise on the east side of Ka'ena. No bad experiences, no kooks, and the fastest we ever went was about 65mph (MAYBE).

I sincerely miss it and am saving up to go back again.

Route Setting Update 10/5

South Boulder got 30 new problems. VB-V7

After about three weeks off from route setting, we're back. Everyone showed up at 8am ready to go. The difference in the day was that we started stripping instead of diving straight into setting. It went surprisingly fast. It was also nice to have more than four hours of sleep in me. Though it didn't help gravity from trying to take me out. Once with a ratchet to the back of my right knee and about five minutes later, a hold popped off the bolt and down onto my face (in your face or rather in MY face).

Gravity: 2

Wes: 0

This to my face. Washer was still on the bolt...on the wall

Sometimes, we don't have a ladder to our selves. We're typically doubling up on either side of the ladders. One of us on the "right" side of the ladder and another on the side manufactures don't want you using. Oh well. There is no description except we get the job done.

Just another day

We have 30 brand new spanking problems up for you to get on now.

Next week we'll will be setting the North Corridor. Till then, these VB-V7 problems should provide some entertainment for you.

Yellow Thumbs & a Five Ten shoe review

Mortar Rock had pretty good conditions regarding being blasted by a heat wave for the past week. I went up thinking that more people would be taking advantage of the good weather, but found my self alone again on a good day. I don't understand this. Whenever I think the weather is good and conditions are cool enough, Mortar Rock is empty. At least I had a pad with me this time around. The first time I had Mortar Rock to myself, I had no pad. No one was there when I foolishly expected people to be. It has been these two times I have done problems unexpectedly. 

This time I happened to flash a variation of Jungle Fever call Yellow Thumbs. I don't know if it is a proper flash since it shares the first move of Jungle Fever, but I hadn't done the moves on the variation. It was fun (even for a Mortar Rock eliminate).

It also helps when you have a pair of brand new Five Ten 5X handy. New grip really helps. They break in really easy for me. About a hour into climbing and they felt like a glove. The shoe has a heel that fits comfortably and doesn't slip off when heel hooking. The strap helps pull the mid-sole into your foot for a better fit and the zipper is easy on/off. All day comfort is a big commodity that this shoe offers. An instant classic. The 5X is also the second shoe that I found makes toe hooks, which I used to never think plausible for my footwork, easier (the first shoe for toe hooking would be the Mocs). Good job Five Ten on producing a product that is my all favorite non-downturned climbing shoe.

Real Live Space Ship (aka a realization)

Some days, I get frustrated. Human nature. Somethings will seep into your mind and slowly bug you, but you have no idea what that object is.

It happens to me a lot. Lately, I've been able to keep it under control and let is dissipate and dissolve so I don't go all ape shit and let my anger come out in a destructive way. Every now and then it happens where I'm unable to control it and it comes out when I climb (which is odd and I have no clue why). Stupid things like letting go, knowing I can do a certain move and not being able to execute it..those types of things just put unwanted and unneeded pressure on my already shit mood. 

It puts people off and not wanting to be in the place. I hate it. Momentary relapses into my past suck. I used to o it and work hard not to. It's been a big personal struggle of mine for almost a year now. The anger issue has gotten substantially better than last September. I know I have a long ways to go before I'm completely better. But calming down has allowed me to be more positive about my climbing and abilities and to be more realistic about it as well. If you're close to a problem, then your close (I know I have touched this subject more than once, bare with me). If you're not, please don't say you are. It's unrealistic. I don't want to rain on any one's parade. But you have to tell it like it is and not get discouraged. I've stopped climbing with people because of that. I hate that I have, but I have. Climbing alone is fun, and climbing with people who are realistic about their own abilities and such make it more enjoyable for me. That's my personal opinion on the subject. 

Photos

Always remember to stretch

Five Ten

"This man felt the need for speed..."

"...this man also flet the need for speed."

Hawaii on BLU-RAY DVD. It's just like going to Hawaii.

Minus Hawaii.

Don't a be a whiny _ _ _ _ _

Motivation.

It's hard to think of much to write about a subject that, peaks and fades so quickly. Most of my climbing career is spent searching for this almost unattainable item. I really don't want this to sound metaphorical, or some old tired, hippie, horse-shit post. I guess there's a disclaimer for you…

But it's fucking hard to find sometimes. You're trying your projects or you're training. You feel so defeated and weak to get your lazy ass to the start of problems thinking, "I'm getting shut down. DUDE…what the fuck?" It's frustrating trying to climb through a shit session. Somewhere in the back of your mind, you know that it helps you become better. But in the moment, in that little blurb of time and space you forget everything. How hard you've worked to get back to a good mental game and a solid state of mind. Where you aren't cussing all the time and don't feel angry. 

You want to be stronger now and you hate that you can't see yourself getting stronger. 

It's only when you climb with others you haven't climbed with for a good amount of time, can you appreciate their words of, "You're pissing on that move," "You're climbing really strong." Having someone you respect within climbing and consider a trustworthy friend tell you things of that nature (and also call you out) is pretty fucking rad (read at your risk children). 

It also CREATES motivation (at least for me it does). I've come to a realization that taking a week long trip and only climbing twice while on that trip was the best time off ever. I wasn't angry, I didn't say the word fuck once (even I'm puzzled at that one). I can now reflect on how psyched I was to come back and GET stronger for my projects I have outside. 

So here's some tips for you people who think rest is bad and you get weaker when you don't climb 5 days on…

#1 TAKE REST DAYS/WEEKS. You aren't some freak of nature that can climb five days on. You will fail and fall. Rest god dammit.

#2 Climb with people stronger than you, but don't compare your self to them.

#3 Try harder moves than you're doing. Get uncomfortable bitches.

#4 It's just climbing. It's not YOUR job (unless you're a professional at this). Don't take it way too seriously. You're climbing rocks…outside…probably with a bunch of dudes, rolling around in the dirt on three inches of foam. How does that make climbing sound? Not that serious anymore I bet (dumbass)…

#5 Don't be a negative nancy. Or better yet a whiny W _ _ _ Y. You can fill in the blanks.

Those are my top 5 tips

Mini Top 5

Tonight was a really good plastic pulling/perseverance training night. I read THIS post about "1-6-3" when training. It's seems pretty true. One our of ten days of workouts will be fucking amazing. Six of them, nothing special. And three are the days everything is hard as shit and you feel weak. It's something interesting to think about.

Anyways, my goal to climb everything in the cave just got a major push in advancement, thanks to Chris Bloch. I showed up late for a session, only knowing I wanted to do the black ten in the cave. As I walked up to the gym, seeing his van got me psyched, knowing I'd be able to climb with someone else. And I actually enjoyed warming up on the North Boulder set, despite having been shut down completely last time I tried the problems.

We stepped into the cave and I put the problem down...first try of the night. Muscle memory at it's finest. Not wanting to end the session, Chris got me psyched on this white eight (if you watched the video, it's #5) with a dyno that gets you close to horizontal. A couple of times I supermaned out and feel face first onto the mat. One of the falls shot me back 4ft. out of the cave face down. It was so rad.

The moral of this post is: perseverance pays off
and...
You gotta bring the fire. Bring the passion.

THANKS FOR READING!

LA Cliché Promo Video

LA CLICHÉ PROMO 2010 from Cliché Skateboards on Vimeo.

HELLA tight.

I might die, but not today.

I really don't know how to update anymore. It is demotivating to try and think of something, potentially boring to read, to come up with. I don't really do much with my days. I forget to take pictures during the day and don't think what happens is very interesting day to day. I mostly sit around till I want to climb (on climbing days) or ride my bike around. That's…about all that happens.

Sometimes, I get an idea to write about or form my own opinion about. But mostly, I keep to myself. There have been day I haven't said a word, not opening my mouth. I guess that's interesting sometimes. How can one not say anything during the day? No human interaction for one helps. You don't have people around you that do (in your opinion) dumb things. 

For example, I was on my bike yesterday on College going up towards Claremont. I had an AC Transit bus on my left side. Up ahead a car was backing in to a parking space, possibly 100ft in front of me. I was approaching the car on the drivers side, when all of a sudden, the drivers door opens quickly.


Spilt second thinking!


I swerved left then back right to avoid hitting the door AND the bus. Wanna see your life flash before your eyes (as the cliché goes)? Try that scary shit.

Bridges Route Setting Update 9/7

Usually, I'm not this exhausted after a setting day, but I tried to climb yesterday afterwards since I wasn't tired yet. I think it might have worked because I'm still exhausted.

Yesterday was the first time we reset the rope walls at Bridges. We've done this maybe twice since the gym was open. It only gets touched by the kids and birthday parties. It's one of the quickest things to set surprisingly. Yes, this is a bouldering gym but we have a small top-rope wall (small enough you can solo it, but the staff gets on your ass if you do that) to appeal to birthday parties.

The front of the wall, about 20ft. tall

Finished set

As we finished, Ben Eastman and Ethan Pringle showed up to do some climbing there

Ethan Pringle

So come in and climb at Bridges. We'll be taking about 3 weeks off from setting so whatever you're projecting will be up for a while. Hopefully that motivates you to go and do them quickly so you can enjoy the weather outside

"Dude, what the fuck?"

Mistakes are, highly likely to happen DAILY within life. Small ones, mid-size, and the ever shitty big ass huge mistakes (then there's the deadly mistakes, but that's an entirely different level).

Some you can correct easily. Some so minor that by simply saying, "It's completely my fault that this happen, I made the mistake. No one else," works. It helps you learn that what you did wasn't the the best choice and you (hopefully) learn not to make the same mistake twice.

Other type of mistakes take time and forgiveness. It doesn't happen over night. The sooner you learn THAT, the sooner you can stop crying and whining about how you're sorry. Sorry is a cop out. Sorry fixes small minuet mistakes.

Also, don't lie about your fuck ups. Don't try to point the finger and blame someone else for what you did. It sucks when someone else is involved in the mistake that is an innocent bystander within the scenario that has unfolded. Thanks to you, they may or may not get a shit storm. It really depends on who created the mishap and how they react to it. I've seen people get shocked and point fingers, not wanting to take blame for their actions. Almost embarrassed by what they did. "My god...did I really do that? I don't want any part of this shit storm," is a rough generalization of what probably goes through any ones subconscious when they're about to point fingers at someone else to blame for their faulty behavior. I've seen it, done it (as I grew up but quickly learned not to do that bullshit anymore), and been on the receiving end of finger pointing. It sucks. it's like winning the worst game show in history. You mess up and don't want to be caught with the blame. What do you do? If you're a spineless piece of shit, you look at the next guy and say, "No it's THEIR fault this happened, not me. I had nothing to do with this. Yes sir, I'm completely innocent."

I call BULLSHIT.

If you hadn't lied right there, and instead owned up to what you created, the person asking for an explanation wouldn't have to go through a run-around of crap and stories and the ever so friendship ruining device we call, drama. And they'll probably respect you better for being able to come clean. It shows integrity and respect towards others. Don't lie to them. Grab a spine and stand up straight.

Otherwise, GET THE FUCK OUT OF HERE.

Check out Kyle Luman's photo blog.

KYLE LUMAN PHOTOGRAPHY

I've known this guy since high school. The guy is a talented photographer, skater, and an all around good dude to be around.

So check out his photos and tell him what you think of his products.

No witty title

Ever since I've gotten home Sunday evening, I have been seriously bugged out by my return. My body is still slow from my one week on vacation, I hate wearing shoes after not for a week, my joints and muscles are a lot stiffer here...so many factors I had forgotten about that can make you completely miserable and hate life.

I've also noticed that I tend to get mad over here, a lot more, than where I was. It dawned upon me that I swear a lot more than when I traveled. I was more at ease and comfortable abroad. The airport didn't bum me out, the slowness of people either didn't creep into my head like some infestation of frustration. I didn't experience anger. Only once did it ever almost become a problem, but it quickly and swiftly subsided.  I thought home was here, with friends and climbing. What's going on? Whiskey Tango Foxtrot??

But for now, I'll endure getting used to home while subconsciously wishing I was back on a white sandy beach, enjoying the sun and the ocean breeze. Possibly a cold beer in my hand, contemplating where I will eat dinner after climbing. I'll be in the crowds of people whizzing by me to catch trains, only to run up the stairs to be defeated by the sight of it pulling away. I'll be enjoying my time, not worrying about if I missed out on something (like I used to do before I left).

Some photos

Chorizo hot dog at Hank's Haute Dogs 

Avocado. Yes, it's big.

Volcanic Rock Gym in Waipio, HI. It's a rad place to check out

Follow them on Twitter: @volcanicrockgym

Allen wrench power, activate! Form of, T-HANDLE WRENCH!

Different

Before I came to Hawaii, I was a little apprehensive. Bad memories of the last time (about ten years ago now) flooded back into my mind. I had just turned 11, it was my brothers wedding, and my mom was being her controlling self. It wasn't the best of times. I could have had better (then again, we could all have better times in hindsight).

Ten years later: I'm 21, my brother is still married (in these times with certain sports figures, it says something), and I'm not here with my mom. I'm here on vacation with my pops and step-mom as they get ready to retire here. I can now start to see why they are going to move here. It's warmer, it's slower paced, people are kind and respect each other more here, people are WAY more friendlier than they are on the mainland (sorry southerners, this place beats you out by a long shot), and it's pretty damn rad to be able to go to so many different beaches with very little to no other people on the beach BUT you.

"Sure, Hawaii is a fantastic place to visit," you might say. "It's got somethings to do, but I could never live there. It's too hot." I call BULLSHIT. The very first day I arrived here, I was sweating profusely. It wasn't awesome. I didn't really care too much for the lei's, but i dealt with the smell. I wasn't...enthused. This place takes some getting used to, for sure. We went to the beach in Kailua, Lani Kai, and it was blowing a fucking gale. This wasn't what I had in mind. Where was the calm beach, the beer in my hand as I looked out onto the ocean? Why is there 25mph wind? For Christ's sake, this sucked!

Fortunately, that was just the first hour. I was tired from the plane ride and a little hungry (alright I was really hungry). But the next three days I learned to start thinking a bit slower, and not really give a shit about what happens. I thought I knew how to back home...nay nay. Back home is gossip, is the whose-whose of everyday life, the ins and outs of climbing. Frustration, F-bombs, stress...that's what home is (something I'm not looking forward to returning to, at all) for me. Here, I haven't cursed. No random yelling, no madness, nothing. I'm for once enjoying my time somewhere! It's amazing. The people are friendlier and cheery (something I can't stand back home) and actually say thanks for no reason other than to make you smile and say thank you back. They don't say 'You're Welcome' here, which is refreshing. We're both thankful for the service and time and the fact that we're still alive on this dirtball floating through space and time. Yep, people here are rad.

But back home I have friends and a job route setting.  Yes, it's only twice a week if that, but it's responsibilities. I believe I was going down a road of being burnt out and surly. I'd turn into another miserable bastard of a setter, something I have seen time and time again at certain places around the country. Yes, I too was getting to be THAT guy that hates life and is miserable. Every gym has one or two of them (or a who staff full of them). I'm actually glad I came here now. This might become a yearly thing for me. I enjoy it. It's relaxing and refreshing to see new things, new people. I like getting my sorry-ass handed to me trying to snorkel in the ocean because I'm terrified of drowning and being in over my head. It's humbling. As crazy as it seems, I actually enjoy reflecting on myself and seeing how I was going down a path that only lead to being miserable.

As Chris Bloch put it so eloquently, "See that guy? He's on a fast track to NOWHERE."

Sunrise

I got up early and went over to Kailua on the east side of Oahu this morning. Supposedly it's one of the wolds best beaches(?). It's got this fine sand I'm sure will turn up back home somewhere I'm not gonna be psyched about later on down the road.


 Here's a some sunrise shot I got with my phone.

This is where I am

What about you?

A good idea

Relax and recap

It hasn't even been one whole day here in Oahu, HI and I'm still keeping the climbing projects back home at Mortar fresh in my mind. This level of psyche for Mortar Rock has been unprecedented in myself for...quite sometime now. It's always nice to get better beta for climbs I had sworn of as being impossible (for me at least). Chris Bloch showed me what the fuck was up with Jungle Fever and gave me the proper beta. Instead of trying to open hand the first hold (like I had previously tried to no avail), I close the crimp on the edge and it lets me feel solid enough to bring my left foot up. This little change in beta made the problem feel doable for myself this year, along with Impossible Wall. But that's for when I come back home.

For now, I'm relaxing in our friends' house. Having woken up at around 5am here (which means 8am back in California time) and stretching out my back from sleeping on a thin futon which was basically a space on the hardwood floor, covered by a thin mattress that my tired ass bottomed out, I feel ok. The worst thing about the islands? Mosquitos. Not down with the little bastards at home, not down with with traveling. That's it really. The ocean is warmer, there's absolutely NO traffic (and what the call traffic isn't as bad as the Bay Area, Los Angeles, or worse New York traffic), and the people are friendly which is something I'm not really used to back home (except for friends).

Hoop Dreams

Hoop Dreams. V4. A Mike Papciak classic. 10 minutes walking from Mortar Rock. You could do this without a pad and in regular shoes too I guess, if you're into that sort of thing.

Enjoy.

I wish....

I think to take pictures more.

But I do not.

Oh well.

After what was possibly the worst day this year (which is really good because I haven't had those types of days since last year), I had a really good day climbing wise the very next day. Yes it was plastic, but it was Cryil's problem and those tend to be hard. I try to do his problems but they take a lot of you.

I tried it from the start about six times. The right hand pinch isn't optimal but it makes due. So instead of a violent drive by into an undercling, I learned to gaston undercling and then match it. It might have looked funky, but if I had any chance of actually getting further I needed to do this beta. I liked this problem because it had a big move to the So ILL hands off tracking feet, which made it seem further than it is. The problem has only two independent foot holds on the entire route. 80% of the footholds are recycled hands. The best part about this problem (I know, why I'm raving about plastic)? After coming through the cave on to huecos, you matched a big feature and proceeded to reach to your left to a pinch/crimp Climb-It hold. Once it was secure, you cut your feet and swing them to the left onto the final foothold. I haven't done this many problems where you had a big ass foot and had to delicately place your foot onto it.

I think it really helped not thinking about it. I actually felt horrible the time I did it. Every move I thought I was off, until the last difficult move. It was good for me to do it in that way because it helped me see that I can push through and hold on when I feel like shit...when I want to.

Small then big

Quick update.

Psyched at Mortar, sorta psyched at Mickey's (been a lot this last month), and psyched for other things.

Getting clips from climbing. I'll have an edit of Austin up soon.

That's it.

Stay tuned...

The past two days...

Holy crap, I really thought it was Wednesday. Here's what happened last night at Bridges.

Monday night: did my long (see 20 hand moves) cave problem in two tries. Psyche was high. Proceeded to do Dylan's v7/v-Huge-Man after about 4 days of total effort. makes my problem standing at v10 look like a v8. Always brings up the thought of inflation and how it affects our sport. but that's a different post for a different day...

 I still feel okay climbing wise. Not saying much since I feel like I haven't climbed well. Finally did something at Bridges that feels harder than posted. Even though it's plastic, it's still hard. It got me psyched that I did that. You have be hall-n-oats (i.e. hauling ass) through the first campus section. One of my goals is to learn how to climb fast and efficiently so in comps I can save energy. That would be nice. Only one way to train for that: do the TBS, which I'm not really excited for. Three good reasons why...

#1 A lot of people standing around and watching in the way of competitors

#2 Cramped spaces with overly competitive people

#3 The setting is slightly the same as regular setting


And lately, the psyche for Mortar Rock (aka the best place in the world to climb*) has been high. Trying to Repeat Nat's Traverse and Do Impossible Wall are on my list to do there. Once I do Impossible, Mission Impossible. I can't touch Impossible at the moment, but I'm psyched to try it more. When I say I can't touch it, I mean I'm not close to sending. People will sometimes say they're close to doing a problem when they can't touch the crux move. What do I mean by "can't touch"? Let me break this down for you...

In term of being close to sending and can't touch you have:
A: Falling on the last move repeatedly because of Fatigue (SUPER CLOSE)
B: Falling after the crux (CLOSE)
C: Falling before the crux repeatedly (CAN'T TOUCH IT)

Majority of people tell others they're are A, when they either mean B or commonly C. This might sound good in words and make you feel better about your weak-ass (just don't have them come and see you climb the problem till you have it dialed and call it soft, suggesting a downgrade). If you're gonna lie, SHUT YOUR FACE!

*If you like climbing on grease and eliminates and sharp breaking rock

*WARNING* Due to subject matter, viewer discretion is advise

8a

No, not the french grade for 13b. I'm talking about the website 8a.nu. There are many blogs, blog posts, forum topics dedicated to this subject. I can't say what hasn't been said because it already has been over the years. "It's dumb," "It's stupid," "It's helpful," "It's great!""Jens is an idiot," (I don't know the man and personally I think he created something useful for people to keep track of their ascents). 

Yes, I am a member of 8a.nu.

No, I DON'T have a scorecard. Therefore, I am unranked in the system.

Yes, I DO have a log-book though. I like to keep track of what I have done over the years. I don't go out and do things JUST for my logbook though. And this is where a lot of people go different ways. A majority of people I have seen do things to fill their scorecards out, as if climbing rocks is some sort of competition. Yes, I am guilty of doing this in the past (no sense of denying things). It created an unhealthy amount of pressure on myself to do a certain climb. if I failed, I wasn't happy and bummed out. That shit SUCKED, so much. I finally switched it to a log-book to keep track of my ascents. Since I have, my personal take on it has changed from, 'God this is retarded. Why am I on this?' to 'Ok, this is helpful in a way.' 

The website is also great for news and information (if you're into that). You can also see what you're friends have done by following them (like Twitter. oh yeah, follow my twats from the twit at twitter.com/wes_mo). 

There. That is my take on 8a. A bunch of ramblings from my head, to you.

Thoughts

I believe that being humble is one of the most important aspects of acting professional. Yeah, talking massive amounts of shit is fun, but gets you no where but the bottom. I do my fair share of talking. In my defense its my opinion that I am expressing. And as of lately, I have I reassessed my self and checked my sorry ass (thank you to the people I've been climbing with, Will, Elese, and Austin). And I'm going to express some thoughts I have had in my head for quite some time.

Right now.

First thought: SPONSORSHIPS
–The goal of any climber who puts in hard work and years of climbing. The represent companies and the rock climbing community wherever they go to the fullest of their capabilities. Very few people realize and understand this. A majority of people, I believe, are misguided in their thinking about being a sponsored climber. While free product and exposure are perks of sponsorships, there is a great deal of hard work, time, and effort put into creating a relationship with a company. And in this economy, becoming sponsored in the rock climbing community takes more than climbing hard and being positive. You gotta be able to put your ass on the line to go out and climb and document it. And I'm not talking about putting on your 8a.numberchase scorecard, or doing climbs that will fluff your climbing resume. Get a video camera (a nice one) and a wide angle or fish eye lens (or both). Get a couple buddies and go filming. It will help you boost your confidence to send and open up your personality more. "But I'm camera shy." Get over yourself. It's only a camera. It's not gonna kill you. Plus you'll learn more about HOW you climb. You watch how you move. At first, I was so bad. I wasted a lot of energy and time and anticipated. But by climbing in front of a camera, I saw what I did and decided to mentally take note and work that aspect. It's training, really.

Second thought: HUMBLE PIE
–What do I mean by this? I mean that a lot of rock climbers are in it for them and them alone. They don't care about others and will screw you if it makes them look good. What? You thought it was sun shine and rainbows? HA! How misguided you have been. I've seen people help others and get shafted in return climbing. You go belay a buddy, you haul and schlep pads for them. Maybe you get a thank you . MAYBE. It's these ass-bites I feel sorry for. They turn on a dime for you, their trusted belay bitch/pad hauling "friends". They may spot you and offer the occasional advice and beta. But when you ask to borrow a brush or get a couple belays from them? The brush is mysteriously "missing" or they're "not in the mood to go climbing that day or belay". Never fear. For the next time these fools want a belay or spot, serve them up some humble pie. It's easy to make. One part water, one part confidence. Next time they're talking up a storm about sending their latest and greatest hardest project but can't get off the ground on the thing in front of them, casually stroll up to it and try it. You'll probably end up sending it before them. You'll feel good and they'll shut their traps. Unless they walk away claiming it was a fluke. Then they can **** off. Miserable wankers...

Those are the two thoughts in my head.

Thanks for reading!

The last couple days

Tuesday, we set some new boulder problems. They're pretty fresh for your tips. Eric Sanchez came and and pretty much pissed on our stuff. It was impressive to see him warm up on seven, eight, my ten (twice). He didn't fall for about the first 30 minutes he was there.

Eric Sanchez

Double Up

I took Wednesday off as a rest day so I could be rested up for Thursday at Mortar Rock. But before I went, I helped Damian get the final rungs up on the campus board at Bridges. It is finished now, with 13 rungs to the top. So psyched to be able to start campusing again.

In the beginning

Unfinished Business

It's coming...

Get Some

Mortar was a lot of fun with Austin, Will, and Tracy. Mike Papciak and Jason (two guys I've climbed with throughout the years climbing) showed up and show us what was up. Mike did Nat's forwards and backwards. We also got a nice little education that the problem Black Plague is NOT a new problem. They used to do that in high school and I'm pretty sure that Scott Frye did that as a warm up back in the 70's. Just saying since people are claiming bogus FAs these days (as well as bogus grading but that's subjective and it's more like guidelines...)

Austin and I got back on Nat's Traverse. Somehow, the way I first did it was POWERFUL and my weak ass can't repeat that beta. So I had to take a page from history and use Verm's beta by campusing the rose move. Previously, I had been able to avoid the one arm campus, but the rock gods said, "Not today son." One of my goals is to get Nat's on video for...a project of mine. That's what I'll call it for now.

(Fun Fact: John "Vermin" Sherman is a true Bay Area local? Not only did he create the "idiot V-scale" as he put it's so eloquently, he also was responsible for most of our problems right here at Mortar Rock? But Mortar isn't Hueco. Or Chossarado*)

Yesterday (Friday), Will and I went out to Mickey's Beach. He had never been so it was nice to take him to a new area. The approach is all down hill from the parking lot. This would prove to be a shocker to him coming back. Will really wanted to get the classic Orange Buddha Arête. I believe he can next week. He's probably the one person, I believe, who will be able to break in to double digits this year. And he's only been climbing since July 2009. Improvement is rapid. it also helps he able to learn really quickly. He's always improving his footwork (which he feels isn't amazing). If I had a team, him and Austin would be on it. Not because they're good climbers, but they fact that they're good people too.

ORGANIC ©WillRathavongsa

"What am I doing?" ©WillRathavongsa

That's nice... ©WillRathavongsa

Rock gods said, "Not today son."

I can see for miles and miles

To cap off a good day of climbing at the beach, Will, his wife Elese, and I went to Marica's (where Austin works). To get a true sense of how hard Austin works, you only need to go in for about a minute and watch. He's running around, taking people's orders and seating them, making drinks (strong, good drinks) at the bar, and presenting food that is worth the price. It's a small restaurant located on College Ave. near Broadway in Oakland, across the street from an Indian restaurant. The staff is friendly and polite. It is without a doubt some of the best presented food. I'm a simple person and it's doesn't take much to impress me and Marica's delivers above and beyond my expectations.

*sorry I meant Boulder, CO "climbers" who feel the need to point out that John Sherman is a CO native and always has been. I say, know your history and shut your mouths

Short and sweet

This is a short one. Bigger one tonight.

Sounds like I'm taking a massive crap...whatever.

Climbing has been good. There's a new set on the North Corridor at Bridges as of Tuesday. VB-V8.

Going out to Mortar Rock tonight and Mickey's with Will and Austin tomorrow. Bringing my video camera cause I need some footage of me climbing. Not to stroke my own ego (not a double entendre), but I would like to put a sponsor me tape together for climbing. It's an idea I've had for quite some time now.

And I am super close to a new macbook pro. After pricing it out online and figuring out how much I have been saving up from setting, housework, and my taking care of my dog and watching my moms place (yes she pays me for that with cash and food. SO psyched) I'm super close to getting it with a nice little buffer so I don't become a broke ass mo'fo.

So close...

Recap

It's hard to write a recap of last week. So instead, I'll post some pictures I took on my phone since I don't carry a camera.

Day 1...

Sunrise wake up

Day 3...

Hard life after a 15 mile bike ride

Mono Lake

Sunset at Mono Lake

Moths. Lots, and lots, and lots, of dead moths.

Day 5...

East Side granite, 45 minutes of Bishop.

Tom's Place

A classic

FA of "Small Rocks for Small People" at Rock Creek Lake at the campground parking lot.

Overall, I really enjoyed my little vacation. I learned that climbing is something that I appreciate a lot more when I don't get to do it almost everyday. Sometimes you need a break and to not climb and be in the game. Doing that problem above made me realize that climbing has always been fun. I it was interesting to see how I figured it out. I consciously thought about solving it during forerunning work. Get one sequence down, figure out the next. Till one by one, it comes into place.

Oh yeah, one last photo...

The End