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Sunday, August 15, 2010

I wish....

I think to take pictures more.

But I do not.

Oh well.

After what was possibly the worst day this year (which is really good because I haven't had those types of days since last year), I had a really good day climbing wise the very next day. Yes it was plastic, but it was Cryil's problem and those tend to be hard. I try to do his problems but they take a lot of you.

I tried it from the start about six times. The right hand pinch isn't optimal but it makes due. So instead of a violent drive by into an undercling, I learned to gaston undercling and then match it. It might have looked funky, but if I had any chance of actually getting further I needed to do this beta. I liked this problem because it had a big move to the So ILL hands off tracking feet, which made it seem further than it is. The problem has only two independent foot holds on the entire route. 80% of the footholds are recycled hands. The best part about this problem (I know, why I'm raving about plastic)? After coming through the cave on to huecos, you matched a big feature and proceeded to reach to your left to a pinch/crimp Climb-It hold. Once it was secure, you cut your feet and swing them to the left onto the final foothold. I haven't done this many problems where you had a big ass foot and had to delicately place your foot onto it.

I think it really helped not thinking about it. I actually felt horrible the time I did it. Every move I thought I was off, until the last difficult move. It was good for me to do it in that way because it helped me see that I can push through and hold on when I feel like shit...when I want to.

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