Please follow wesmiraglio.blogspot.com. Thank you.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Relax and recap

It hasn't even been one whole day here in Oahu, HI and I'm still keeping the climbing projects back home at Mortar fresh in my mind. This level of psyche for Mortar Rock has been unprecedented in myself for...quite sometime now. It's always nice to get better beta for climbs I had sworn of as being impossible (for me at least). Chris Bloch showed me what the fuck was up with Jungle Fever and gave me the proper beta. Instead of trying to open hand the first hold (like I had previously tried to no avail), I close the crimp on the edge and it lets me feel solid enough to bring my left foot up. This little change in beta made the problem feel doable for myself this year, along with Impossible Wall. But that's for when I come back home.

For now, I'm relaxing in our friends' house. Having woken up at around 5am here (which means 8am back in California time) and stretching out my back from sleeping on a thin futon which was basically a space on the hardwood floor, covered by a thin mattress that my tired ass bottomed out, I feel ok. The worst thing about the islands? Mosquitos. Not down with the little bastards at home, not down with with traveling. That's it really. The ocean is warmer, there's absolutely NO traffic (and what the call traffic isn't as bad as the Bay Area, Los Angeles, or worse New York traffic), and the people are friendly which is something I'm not really used to back home (except for friends).

No comments: