The last couple days

Tuesday, we set some new boulder problems. They're pretty fresh for your tips. Eric Sanchez came and and pretty much pissed on our stuff. It was impressive to see him warm up on seven, eight, my ten (twice). He didn't fall for about the first 30 minutes he was there.

Eric Sanchez

Double Up

I took Wednesday off as a rest day so I could be rested up for Thursday at Mortar Rock. But before I went, I helped Damian get the final rungs up on the campus board at Bridges. It is finished now, with 13 rungs to the top. So psyched to be able to start campusing again.

In the beginning

Unfinished Business

It's coming...

Get Some

Mortar was a lot of fun with Austin, Will, and Tracy. Mike Papciak and Jason (two guys I've climbed with throughout the years climbing) showed up and show us what was up. Mike did Nat's forwards and backwards. We also got a nice little education that the problem Black Plague is NOT a new problem. They used to do that in high school and I'm pretty sure that Scott Frye did that as a warm up back in the 70's. Just saying since people are claiming bogus FAs these days (as well as bogus grading but that's subjective and it's more like guidelines...)

Austin and I got back on Nat's Traverse. Somehow, the way I first did it was POWERFUL and my weak ass can't repeat that beta. So I had to take a page from history and use Verm's beta by campusing the rose move. Previously, I had been able to avoid the one arm campus, but the rock gods said, "Not today son." One of my goals is to get Nat's on video for...a project of mine. That's what I'll call it for now.

(Fun Fact: John "Vermin" Sherman is a true Bay Area local? Not only did he create the "idiot V-scale" as he put it's so eloquently, he also was responsible for most of our problems right here at Mortar Rock? But Mortar isn't Hueco. Or Chossarado*)

Yesterday (Friday), Will and I went out to Mickey's Beach. He had never been so it was nice to take him to a new area. The approach is all down hill from the parking lot. This would prove to be a shocker to him coming back. Will really wanted to get the classic Orange Buddha Arête. I believe he can next week. He's probably the one person, I believe, who will be able to break in to double digits this year. And he's only been climbing since July 2009. Improvement is rapid. it also helps he able to learn really quickly. He's always improving his footwork (which he feels isn't amazing). If I had a team, him and Austin would be on it. Not because they're good climbers, but they fact that they're good people too.

ORGANIC ©WillRathavongsa

"What am I doing?" ©WillRathavongsa

That's nice... ©WillRathavongsa

Rock gods said, "Not today son."

I can see for miles and miles

To cap off a good day of climbing at the beach, Will, his wife Elese, and I went to Marica's (where Austin works). To get a true sense of how hard Austin works, you only need to go in for about a minute and watch. He's running around, taking people's orders and seating them, making drinks (strong, good drinks) at the bar, and presenting food that is worth the price. It's a small restaurant located on College Ave. near Broadway in Oakland, across the street from an Indian restaurant. The staff is friendly and polite. It is without a doubt some of the best presented food. I'm a simple person and it's doesn't take much to impress me and Marica's delivers above and beyond my expectations.

*sorry I meant Boulder, CO "climbers" who feel the need to point out that John Sherman is a CO native and always has been. I say, know your history and shut your mouths