Chorizo hot dog at Hank's Haute Dogs
Avocado. Yes, it's big.
Volcanic Rock Gym in Waipio, HI. It's a rad place to check out
Follow them on Twitter: @volcanicrockgym
Allen wrench power, activate! Form of, T-HANDLE WRENCH!
Monday, August 30, 2010
Friday, August 27, 2010
Different
Before I came to Hawaii, I was a little apprehensive. Bad memories of the last time (about ten years ago now) flooded back into my mind. I had just turned 11, it was my brothers wedding, and my mom was being her controlling self. It wasn't the best of times. I could have had better (then again, we could all have better times in hindsight).
Ten years later: I'm 21, my brother is still married (in these times with certain sports figures, it says something), and I'm not here with my mom. I'm here on vacation with my pops and step-mom as they get ready to retire here. I can now start to see why they are going to move here. It's warmer, it's slower paced, people are kind and respect each other more here, people are WAY more friendlier than they are on the mainland (sorry southerners, this place beats you out by a long shot), and it's pretty damn rad to be able to go to so many different beaches with very little to no other people on the beach BUT you.
"Sure, Hawaii is a fantastic place to visit," you might say. "It's got somethings to do, but I could never live there. It's too hot." I call BULLSHIT. The very first day I arrived here, I was sweating profusely. It wasn't awesome. I didn't really care too much for the lei's, but i dealt with the smell. I wasn't...enthused. This place takes some getting used to, for sure. We went to the beach in Kailua, Lani Kai, and it was blowing a fucking gale. This wasn't what I had in mind. Where was the calm beach, the beer in my hand as I looked out onto the ocean? Why is there 25mph wind? For Christ's sake, this sucked!
Fortunately, that was just the first hour. I was tired from the plane ride and a little hungry (alright I was really hungry). But the next three days I learned to start thinking a bit slower, and not really give a shit about what happens. I thought I knew how to back home...nay nay. Back home is gossip, is the whose-whose of everyday life, the ins and outs of climbing. Frustration, F-bombs, stress...that's what home is (something I'm not looking forward to returning to, at all) for me. Here, I haven't cursed. No random yelling, no madness, nothing. I'm for once enjoying my time somewhere! It's amazing. The people are friendlier and cheery (something I can't stand back home) and actually say thanks for no reason other than to make you smile and say thank you back. They don't say 'You're Welcome' here, which is refreshing. We're both thankful for the service and time and the fact that we're still alive on this dirtball floating through space and time. Yep, people here are rad.
But back home I have friends and a job route setting. Yes, it's only twice a week if that, but it's responsibilities. I believe I was going down a road of being burnt out and surly. I'd turn into another miserable bastard of a setter, something I have seen time and time again at certain places around the country. Yes, I too was getting to be THAT guy that hates life and is miserable. Every gym has one or two of them (or a who staff full of them). I'm actually glad I came here now. This might become a yearly thing for me. I enjoy it. It's relaxing and refreshing to see new things, new people. I like getting my sorry-ass handed to me trying to snorkel in the ocean because I'm terrified of drowning and being in over my head. It's humbling. As crazy as it seems, I actually enjoy reflecting on myself and seeing how I was going down a path that only lead to being miserable.
As Chris Bloch put it so eloquently, "See that guy? He's on a fast track to NOWHERE."
Ten years later: I'm 21, my brother is still married (in these times with certain sports figures, it says something), and I'm not here with my mom. I'm here on vacation with my pops and step-mom as they get ready to retire here. I can now start to see why they are going to move here. It's warmer, it's slower paced, people are kind and respect each other more here, people are WAY more friendlier than they are on the mainland (sorry southerners, this place beats you out by a long shot), and it's pretty damn rad to be able to go to so many different beaches with very little to no other people on the beach BUT you.
"Sure, Hawaii is a fantastic place to visit," you might say. "It's got somethings to do, but I could never live there. It's too hot." I call BULLSHIT. The very first day I arrived here, I was sweating profusely. It wasn't awesome. I didn't really care too much for the lei's, but i dealt with the smell. I wasn't...enthused. This place takes some getting used to, for sure. We went to the beach in Kailua, Lani Kai, and it was blowing a fucking gale. This wasn't what I had in mind. Where was the calm beach, the beer in my hand as I looked out onto the ocean? Why is there 25mph wind? For Christ's sake, this sucked!
Fortunately, that was just the first hour. I was tired from the plane ride and a little hungry (alright I was really hungry). But the next three days I learned to start thinking a bit slower, and not really give a shit about what happens. I thought I knew how to back home...nay nay. Back home is gossip, is the whose-whose of everyday life, the ins and outs of climbing. Frustration, F-bombs, stress...that's what home is (something I'm not looking forward to returning to, at all) for me. Here, I haven't cursed. No random yelling, no madness, nothing. I'm for once enjoying my time somewhere! It's amazing. The people are friendlier and cheery (something I can't stand back home) and actually say thanks for no reason other than to make you smile and say thank you back. They don't say 'You're Welcome' here, which is refreshing. We're both thankful for the service and time and the fact that we're still alive on this dirtball floating through space and time. Yep, people here are rad.
But back home I have friends and a job route setting. Yes, it's only twice a week if that, but it's responsibilities. I believe I was going down a road of being burnt out and surly. I'd turn into another miserable bastard of a setter, something I have seen time and time again at certain places around the country. Yes, I too was getting to be THAT guy that hates life and is miserable. Every gym has one or two of them (or a who staff full of them). I'm actually glad I came here now. This might become a yearly thing for me. I enjoy it. It's relaxing and refreshing to see new things, new people. I like getting my sorry-ass handed to me trying to snorkel in the ocean because I'm terrified of drowning and being in over my head. It's humbling. As crazy as it seems, I actually enjoy reflecting on myself and seeing how I was going down a path that only lead to being miserable.
As Chris Bloch put it so eloquently, "See that guy? He's on a fast track to NOWHERE."
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Sunrise
I got up early and went over to Kailua on the east side of Oahu this morning. Supposedly it's one of the wolds best beaches(?). It's got this fine sand I'm sure will turn up back home somewhere I'm not gonna be psyched about later on down the road.
Here's a some sunrise shot I got with my phone.
Here's a some sunrise shot I got with my phone.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Monday, August 23, 2010
Relax and recap
It hasn't even been one whole day here in Oahu, HI and I'm still keeping the climbing projects back home at Mortar fresh in my mind. This level of psyche for Mortar Rock has been unprecedented in myself for...quite sometime now. It's always nice to get better beta for climbs I had sworn of as being impossible (for me at least). Chris Bloch showed me what the fuck was up with Jungle Fever and gave me the proper beta. Instead of trying to open hand the first hold (like I had previously tried to no avail), I close the crimp on the edge and it lets me feel solid enough to bring my left foot up. This little change in beta made the problem feel doable for myself this year, along with Impossible Wall. But that's for when I come back home.
For now, I'm relaxing in our friends' house. Having woken up at around 5am here (which means 8am back in California time) and stretching out my back from sleeping on a thin futon which was basically a space on the hardwood floor, covered by a thin mattress that my tired ass bottomed out, I feel ok. The worst thing about the islands? Mosquitos. Not down with the little bastards at home, not down with with traveling. That's it really. The ocean is warmer, there's absolutely NO traffic (and what the call traffic isn't as bad as the Bay Area, Los Angeles, or worse New York traffic), and the people are friendly which is something I'm not really used to back home (except for friends).
For now, I'm relaxing in our friends' house. Having woken up at around 5am here (which means 8am back in California time) and stretching out my back from sleeping on a thin futon which was basically a space on the hardwood floor, covered by a thin mattress that my tired ass bottomed out, I feel ok. The worst thing about the islands? Mosquitos. Not down with the little bastards at home, not down with with traveling. That's it really. The ocean is warmer, there's absolutely NO traffic (and what the call traffic isn't as bad as the Bay Area, Los Angeles, or worse New York traffic), and the people are friendly which is something I'm not really used to back home (except for friends).
Monday, August 16, 2010
Hoop Dreams
Hoop Dreams. V4. A Mike Papciak classic. 10 minutes walking from Mortar Rock. You could do this without a pad and in regular shoes too I guess, if you're into that sort of thing.
Enjoy.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
I wish....
I think to take pictures more.
But I do not.
Oh well.
After what was possibly the worst day this year (which is really good because I haven't had those types of days since last year), I had a really good day climbing wise the very next day. Yes it was plastic, but it was Cryil's problem and those tend to be hard. I try to do his problems but they take a lot of you.
I tried it from the start about six times. The right hand pinch isn't optimal but it makes due. So instead of a violent drive by into an undercling, I learned to gaston undercling and then match it. It might have looked funky, but if I had any chance of actually getting further I needed to do this beta. I liked this problem because it had a big move to the So ILL hands off tracking feet, which made it seem further than it is. The problem has only two independent foot holds on the entire route. 80% of the footholds are recycled hands. The best part about this problem (I know, why I'm raving about plastic)? After coming through the cave on to huecos, you matched a big feature and proceeded to reach to your left to a pinch/crimp Climb-It hold. Once it was secure, you cut your feet and swing them to the left onto the final foothold. I haven't done this many problems where you had a big ass foot and had to delicately place your foot onto it.
I think it really helped not thinking about it. I actually felt horrible the time I did it. Every move I thought I was off, until the last difficult move. It was good for me to do it in that way because it helped me see that I can push through and hold on when I feel like shit...when I want to.
But I do not.
Oh well.
After what was possibly the worst day this year (which is really good because I haven't had those types of days since last year), I had a really good day climbing wise the very next day. Yes it was plastic, but it was Cryil's problem and those tend to be hard. I try to do his problems but they take a lot of you.
I tried it from the start about six times. The right hand pinch isn't optimal but it makes due. So instead of a violent drive by into an undercling, I learned to gaston undercling and then match it. It might have looked funky, but if I had any chance of actually getting further I needed to do this beta. I liked this problem because it had a big move to the So ILL hands off tracking feet, which made it seem further than it is. The problem has only two independent foot holds on the entire route. 80% of the footholds are recycled hands. The best part about this problem (I know, why I'm raving about plastic)? After coming through the cave on to huecos, you matched a big feature and proceeded to reach to your left to a pinch/crimp Climb-It hold. Once it was secure, you cut your feet and swing them to the left onto the final foothold. I haven't done this many problems where you had a big ass foot and had to delicately place your foot onto it.
I think it really helped not thinking about it. I actually felt horrible the time I did it. Every move I thought I was off, until the last difficult move. It was good for me to do it in that way because it helped me see that I can push through and hold on when I feel like shit...when I want to.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Small then big
Quick update.
Psyched at Mortar, sorta psyched at Mickey's (been a lot this last month), and psyched for other things.
Getting clips from climbing. I'll have an edit of Austin up soon.
That's it.
Stay tuned...
Psyched at Mortar, sorta psyched at Mickey's (been a lot this last month), and psyched for other things.
Getting clips from climbing. I'll have an edit of Austin up soon.
That's it.
Stay tuned...
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
The past two days...
Holy crap, I really thought it was Wednesday. Here's what happened last night at Bridges.
Monday night: did my long (see 20 hand moves) cave problem in two tries. Psyche was high. Proceeded to do Dylan's v7/v-Huge-Man after about 4 days of total effort. makes my problem standing at v10 look like a v8. Always brings up the thought of inflation and how it affects our sport. but that's a different post for a different day...
I still feel okay climbing wise. Not saying much since I feel like I haven't climbed well. Finally did something at Bridges that feels harder than posted. Even though it's plastic, it's still hard. It got me psyched that I did that. You have be hall-n-oats (i.e. hauling ass) through the first campus section. One of my goals is to learn how to climb fast and efficiently so in comps I can save energy. That would be nice. Only one way to train for that: do the TBS, which I'm not really excited for. Three good reasons why...
#1 A lot of people standing around and watching in the way of competitors
#2 Cramped spaces with overly competitive people
#3 The setting is slightly the same as regular setting
And lately, the psyche for Mortar Rock (aka the best place in the world to climb*) has been high. Trying to Repeat Nat's Traverse and Do Impossible Wall are on my list to do there. Once I do Impossible, Mission Impossible. I can't touch Impossible at the moment, but I'm psyched to try it more. When I say I can't touch it, I mean I'm not close to sending. People will sometimes say they're close to doing a problem when they can't touch the crux move. What do I mean by "can't touch"? Let me break this down for you...
In term of being close to sending and can't touch you have:
A: Falling on the last move repeatedly because of Fatigue (SUPER CLOSE)
B: Falling after the crux (CLOSE)
C: Falling before the crux repeatedly (CAN'T TOUCH IT)
Majority of people tell others they're are A, when they either mean B or commonly C. This might sound good in words and make you feel better about your weak-ass (just don't have them come and see you climb the problem till you have it dialed and call it soft, suggesting a downgrade). If you're gonna lie, SHUT YOUR FACE!
*If you like climbing on grease and eliminates and sharp breaking rock
Monday night: did my long (see 20 hand moves) cave problem in two tries. Psyche was high. Proceeded to do Dylan's v7/v-Huge-Man after about 4 days of total effort. makes my problem standing at v10 look like a v8. Always brings up the thought of inflation and how it affects our sport. but that's a different post for a different day...
I still feel okay climbing wise. Not saying much since I feel like I haven't climbed well. Finally did something at Bridges that feels harder than posted. Even though it's plastic, it's still hard. It got me psyched that I did that. You have be hall-n-oats (i.e. hauling ass) through the first campus section. One of my goals is to learn how to climb fast and efficiently so in comps I can save energy. That would be nice. Only one way to train for that: do the TBS, which I'm not really excited for. Three good reasons why...
#1 A lot of people standing around and watching in the way of competitors
#2 Cramped spaces with overly competitive people
#3 The setting is slightly the same as regular setting
And lately, the psyche for Mortar Rock (aka the best place in the world to climb*) has been high. Trying to Repeat Nat's Traverse and Do Impossible Wall are on my list to do there. Once I do Impossible, Mission Impossible. I can't touch Impossible at the moment, but I'm psyched to try it more. When I say I can't touch it, I mean I'm not close to sending. People will sometimes say they're close to doing a problem when they can't touch the crux move. What do I mean by "can't touch"? Let me break this down for you...
In term of being close to sending and can't touch you have:
A: Falling on the last move repeatedly because of Fatigue (SUPER CLOSE)
B: Falling after the crux (CLOSE)
C: Falling before the crux repeatedly (CAN'T TOUCH IT)
Majority of people tell others they're are A, when they either mean B or commonly C. This might sound good in words and make you feel better about your weak-ass (just don't have them come and see you climb the problem till you have it dialed and call it soft, suggesting a downgrade). If you're gonna lie, SHUT YOUR FACE!
*If you like climbing on grease and eliminates and sharp breaking rock
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