And on the fifth day

I said enough resting, it's time to climb.

And the plastic rock gods said, today son! Yes I'm back climbing or Way Lake training as I am no preparing for Way Lake in two weeks. Way Lake sits in Mammoth, CA. About two hours away from Bishop. It is by no means a world class destination. But the rock is good, almost Rocky Mt. like (I don't know what Rocky is like cause I haven't been yet).

The training includes...V10, V8, V8 for projecting and 21 bouldering problems to be completed on my birthday (July 6th) in the cave during forerunning as part of the impromptu birthday bouldering challenge. 21 boulder problems from V0-V10. And then next day I sleep and rest, getting ready for some actual rock climbing away from the Bay Area. I have three days on. THREE. One two THREE fools. When I was in Hueco I went this many days on and did about 35 problems v0-v10 so about 70 problems in 6 days. Easy to hard. Most people there would go one day on and two days off. That method usually entailed the following excuses:

#1 "I had a bad burrito. It had this weird green yellow stuff mixed in it" (You're in El Paso. It's not bad they're GOOD burritos. And that green stuff? Those were Avocados.)

#2 "I'm weak"

#3 "I didn't wake up in time for the gates"

#4 "I've got this gapping hole and I like to whine"

It was amazing how much people could complain about minuscule things. Then again, don't we all complain (pain anyone?)

For now, I'm not complaining. I'm not in pain, and I feel really good. Hopefully the mental training of repeated failure and not getting mad has worked. Or maybe the Crank! Forearm fuel does it's job and keeps me feeling the pump longer so I can climb longer. I think it does. Buy some. It's good. Basically it's just a FUCK-LOAD of vitamin B in powder form. Mi it with a Gatorade and you got some good shit right there! PROBAR bars help as well for giving me some sort of food while Im climbing without weighing me down or feeling sluggish.

BUY THOSE PRODUCTS!

Weekend Update

Here is a breakdown of the weekend.

Friday…

Good day. Really good. Skin didn't suck and I was able to go complete some boulder problems at work. I saw my buddy Dan Portik stick a backflip on a slackline. Insane amount of trying and getting the focus. He is psyched. He's a climber who can slackline, and has a life (like completing grad school). Most slackliners today JUST slackline. I feel that you really need a balance to keep sane, because when you become overly involved in something the passion gets mixed with it being a job. It sounds fun, but unless you are prepared for the hard work and time, it becomes the worst thing in the world. I got a box of PROBAR, two boxes from them. I am so psyched on these. It will help eliminate the need for a complete meal while climbing and and I can take these on the go, severely reducing my waste and impact. So instead of sandwhich and multiple bags, I just have a wrapper or two. And they're much healthier for you and taste much better than a candy bar (Thanks PROBAR!). I'm also very motivated to get back to Mickey's Beach next Thursday before low tide in the morning. I would like to try the other problems there and retry Orange Buddha the ways I have seen in the video to see for myself if that makes it harder. It's one of my new favorite places to go boulder (maybe route climb since there are some cool looking lines there as well). Kind of old school meets new. It's also also right on the ocean. I like the mountains, but I'm a California boy, and I love that great big expanse we call the ocean. It's wild and calm all at once. Eat your heart out Boulder, CO fools with your shit weather in the winter and mountains, I'll take the ocean over you. But the rest of Colorado I'm down with.

Saturday…

My iPhone had been giving me problems. It wouldn't stay on vibrate and switch back on forth between vibrate and ring spontaneously and it was slightly annoying for about 6 months. Kind of a mellow rest day. The heat has really taken over the East Bay, so resting in a dark room when I'm not out and about is probably my best option. As long as I keep from burning up I feel comfortable in the heat. Out with jeans during the day. It's time to wear shorts. Finally!

Sunday…

Last rest day before I strip the North Boulder at work tomorrow.

Matt Burbach on the North Boulder 2009

Ever wake up feeling tired? That's me today.