*WARNING* Due to subject matter, viewer discretion is advise

8a

No, not the french grade for 13b. I'm talking about the website 8a.nu. There are many blogs, blog posts, forum topics dedicated to this subject. I can't say what hasn't been said because it already has been over the years. "It's dumb," "It's stupid," "It's helpful," "It's great!""Jens is an idiot," (I don't know the man and personally I think he created something useful for people to keep track of their ascents). 

Yes, I am a member of 8a.nu.

No, I DON'T have a scorecard. Therefore, I am unranked in the system.

Yes, I DO have a log-book though. I like to keep track of what I have done over the years. I don't go out and do things JUST for my logbook though. And this is where a lot of people go different ways. A majority of people I have seen do things to fill their scorecards out, as if climbing rocks is some sort of competition. Yes, I am guilty of doing this in the past (no sense of denying things). It created an unhealthy amount of pressure on myself to do a certain climb. if I failed, I wasn't happy and bummed out. That shit SUCKED, so much. I finally switched it to a log-book to keep track of my ascents. Since I have, my personal take on it has changed from, 'God this is retarded. Why am I on this?' to 'Ok, this is helpful in a way.' 

The website is also great for news and information (if you're into that). You can also see what you're friends have done by following them (like Twitter. oh yeah, follow my twats from the twit at twitter.com/wes_mo). 

There. That is my take on 8a. A bunch of ramblings from my head, to you.

Thoughts

I believe that being humble is one of the most important aspects of acting professional. Yeah, talking massive amounts of shit is fun, but gets you no where but the bottom. I do my fair share of talking. In my defense its my opinion that I am expressing. And as of lately, I have I reassessed my self and checked my sorry ass (thank you to the people I've been climbing with, Will, Elese, and Austin). And I'm going to express some thoughts I have had in my head for quite some time.

Right now.

First thought: SPONSORSHIPS
–The goal of any climber who puts in hard work and years of climbing. The represent companies and the rock climbing community wherever they go to the fullest of their capabilities. Very few people realize and understand this. A majority of people, I believe, are misguided in their thinking about being a sponsored climber. While free product and exposure are perks of sponsorships, there is a great deal of hard work, time, and effort put into creating a relationship with a company. And in this economy, becoming sponsored in the rock climbing community takes more than climbing hard and being positive. You gotta be able to put your ass on the line to go out and climb and document it. And I'm not talking about putting on your 8a.numberchase scorecard, or doing climbs that will fluff your climbing resume. Get a video camera (a nice one) and a wide angle or fish eye lens (or both). Get a couple buddies and go filming. It will help you boost your confidence to send and open up your personality more. "But I'm camera shy." Get over yourself. It's only a camera. It's not gonna kill you. Plus you'll learn more about HOW you climb. You watch how you move. At first, I was so bad. I wasted a lot of energy and time and anticipated. But by climbing in front of a camera, I saw what I did and decided to mentally take note and work that aspect. It's training, really.

Second thought: HUMBLE PIE
–What do I mean by this? I mean that a lot of rock climbers are in it for them and them alone. They don't care about others and will screw you if it makes them look good. What? You thought it was sun shine and rainbows? HA! How misguided you have been. I've seen people help others and get shafted in return climbing. You go belay a buddy, you haul and schlep pads for them. Maybe you get a thank you . MAYBE. It's these ass-bites I feel sorry for. They turn on a dime for you, their trusted belay bitch/pad hauling "friends". They may spot you and offer the occasional advice and beta. But when you ask to borrow a brush or get a couple belays from them? The brush is mysteriously "missing" or they're "not in the mood to go climbing that day or belay". Never fear. For the next time these fools want a belay or spot, serve them up some humble pie. It's easy to make. One part water, one part confidence. Next time they're talking up a storm about sending their latest and greatest hardest project but can't get off the ground on the thing in front of them, casually stroll up to it and try it. You'll probably end up sending it before them. You'll feel good and they'll shut their traps. Unless they walk away claiming it was a fluke. Then they can **** off. Miserable wankers...

Those are the two thoughts in my head.

Thanks for reading!

The last couple days

Tuesday, we set some new boulder problems. They're pretty fresh for your tips. Eric Sanchez came and and pretty much pissed on our stuff. It was impressive to see him warm up on seven, eight, my ten (twice). He didn't fall for about the first 30 minutes he was there.

Eric Sanchez

Double Up

I took Wednesday off as a rest day so I could be rested up for Thursday at Mortar Rock. But before I went, I helped Damian get the final rungs up on the campus board at Bridges. It is finished now, with 13 rungs to the top. So psyched to be able to start campusing again.

In the beginning

Unfinished Business

It's coming...

Get Some

Mortar was a lot of fun with Austin, Will, and Tracy. Mike Papciak and Jason (two guys I've climbed with throughout the years climbing) showed up and show us what was up. Mike did Nat's forwards and backwards. We also got a nice little education that the problem Black Plague is NOT a new problem. They used to do that in high school and I'm pretty sure that Scott Frye did that as a warm up back in the 70's. Just saying since people are claiming bogus FAs these days (as well as bogus grading but that's subjective and it's more like guidelines...)

Austin and I got back on Nat's Traverse. Somehow, the way I first did it was POWERFUL and my weak ass can't repeat that beta. So I had to take a page from history and use Verm's beta by campusing the rose move. Previously, I had been able to avoid the one arm campus, but the rock gods said, "Not today son." One of my goals is to get Nat's on video for...a project of mine. That's what I'll call it for now.

(Fun Fact: John "Vermin" Sherman is a true Bay Area local? Not only did he create the "idiot V-scale" as he put it's so eloquently, he also was responsible for most of our problems right here at Mortar Rock? But Mortar isn't Hueco. Or Chossarado*)

Yesterday (Friday), Will and I went out to Mickey's Beach. He had never been so it was nice to take him to a new area. The approach is all down hill from the parking lot. This would prove to be a shocker to him coming back. Will really wanted to get the classic Orange Buddha Arête. I believe he can next week. He's probably the one person, I believe, who will be able to break in to double digits this year. And he's only been climbing since July 2009. Improvement is rapid. it also helps he able to learn really quickly. He's always improving his footwork (which he feels isn't amazing). If I had a team, him and Austin would be on it. Not because they're good climbers, but they fact that they're good people too.

ORGANIC ©WillRathavongsa

"What am I doing?" ©WillRathavongsa

That's nice... ©WillRathavongsa

Rock gods said, "Not today son."

I can see for miles and miles

To cap off a good day of climbing at the beach, Will, his wife Elese, and I went to Marica's (where Austin works). To get a true sense of how hard Austin works, you only need to go in for about a minute and watch. He's running around, taking people's orders and seating them, making drinks (strong, good drinks) at the bar, and presenting food that is worth the price. It's a small restaurant located on College Ave. near Broadway in Oakland, across the street from an Indian restaurant. The staff is friendly and polite. It is without a doubt some of the best presented food. I'm a simple person and it's doesn't take much to impress me and Marica's delivers above and beyond my expectations.

*sorry I meant Boulder, CO "climbers" who feel the need to point out that John Sherman is a CO native and always has been. I say, know your history and shut your mouths

Short and sweet

This is a short one. Bigger one tonight.

Sounds like I'm taking a massive crap...whatever.

Climbing has been good. There's a new set on the North Corridor at Bridges as of Tuesday. VB-V8.

Going out to Mortar Rock tonight and Mickey's with Will and Austin tomorrow. Bringing my video camera cause I need some footage of me climbing. Not to stroke my own ego (not a double entendre), but I would like to put a sponsor me tape together for climbing. It's an idea I've had for quite some time now.

And I am super close to a new macbook pro. After pricing it out online and figuring out how much I have been saving up from setting, housework, and my taking care of my dog and watching my moms place (yes she pays me for that with cash and food. SO psyched) I'm super close to getting it with a nice little buffer so I don't become a broke ass mo'fo.

So close...

Recap

It's hard to write a recap of last week. So instead, I'll post some pictures I took on my phone since I don't carry a camera.

Day 1...

Sunrise wake up

Day 3...

Hard life after a 15 mile bike ride

Mono Lake

Sunset at Mono Lake

Moths. Lots, and lots, and lots, of dead moths.

Day 5...

East Side granite, 45 minutes of Bishop.

Tom's Place

A classic

FA of "Small Rocks for Small People" at Rock Creek Lake at the campground parking lot.

Overall, I really enjoyed my little vacation. I learned that climbing is something that I appreciate a lot more when I don't get to do it almost everyday. Sometimes you need a break and to not climb and be in the game. Doing that problem above made me realize that climbing has always been fun. I it was interesting to see how I figured it out. I consciously thought about solving it during forerunning work. Get one sequence down, figure out the next. Till one by one, it comes into place.

Oh yeah, one last photo...

The End

Later(d)

I need a break.

From the Bay Area that is. I'm going up to Mammoth for a couple days this week with my dad. Even if I don't climb, I'm away. I'm near where I want to be which is Bishop. Even though Bishop will be engulfed in heat that I am not down with, it's okay. I will have my time this fall/winter there. I don't care whose there and what they're climbing.

I don't care.

I find enjoyment in the boulders. Hard or easy, tall or small. Numbers don't mean much really and I feel are guidelines. We should follow, but not intently. You can stray from them most of the time. I try to keep this in mind, and it's been helpful. It's hard sometimes when you have some people harking that grades are for losers and then some people making the biggest deal in the world that a grade means something. Grades are like age; they're both numbers and don't mean SHIT.

And speaking of age, I turn 21 as of...tomorrow July 6th. Yes, 21 years ago, I came into this world. Now that I can legally drink (but still can't rent a car. Wait, I have to be able to drive first...) I guess I'm growing old. That's right kids, get off my lawn and pull up your damn pants ya morons! With your hippin' and your hoppin' and the filth flarn and filth. Makes me sick. Sick I say! Little bastards...

And I'm still feeling Wednesday. Whaaaaat? Yes, that's right. I said it.

Wednesday.

Either way, I'm worked. And working my ass off it feels like bouldering. Since we haven't set yet (next round is on July 6th, my 21st), and I have done what I was motivated on at Bridges, I have been going to other places. Good god, I forgot how much I am used to our setting. I get to Ironworks and my climbing gets uglier than the red-headed cousin (sorry red-heads!) Oh well...

Monday I strip the cave. Hopefully not alone. That would SUCK so much. It's huge. It's long. And an improbable job for one man to do in 2 hours.

The Beast