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Saturday, May 15, 2010

Fucking your face, one post at a time


Chris Bloch putting the finishing touches on his V7

Saturday was my full on rest day. After five days of climbing (with a semi rest rest day between days three and four), I'm feeling it. The muscles being sore, the fingers are sore, and it's all good too. I'm not complaining about it; far from that. I actually enjoy this soreness. I enjoy it when my body is so worked from climbing that all I find acceptable to do on a rest day is to sleep. But knowing myself, I can't do that. I have to do something. I have to get my sorry-ass out of bed and the house. But I really didn't do that plan at all. I ended up sleeping half the day (which felt fucking amazing to do).

Lazy ass...

Sunday I went back to Bridges. I'm slightly focused on doing this one problem in the cave right now. Its teaching me how to not lose focus and become bored, like I have in the past. Each time I try it I get closer and closer to linking it together. Whoever said inside didn't do anything or teach you new skills is full of themselves (and full of shit). I had to conjure up some new beta because I couldn't even come close to the intended way with a toe hook and some trickery. I couldn't even touch the move. So instead of becoming frustrated and swearing off the problem, I looked at this other possibility that I think Cyril did where you end up facing outwards and do a 360 rotation off a two finger pocket. Everyone who heard me explain it doubted it. That was until they saw me execute the move. I can't wait till it pieces together. It's taught me to keep patient which will help me outside a lot this coming year.


Will Rathvongsa

I really would love to go to Washington State and sample some boulders up there. Perfect looking granite blocks. I'd also like to go to Smith Rock this year, but I need to dedicate more time and energy to keeping calm and not freaking out when I fall. I've been getting better. Though some days, I just want to let it out and scream, "FUCK!" But I can't do that. That's pretty fucking weak man, you know? One other thing I've done this past winter is let go of being ultra competitive. People who climb here at Bridges Rock Gym aren't competitive; where as I feel a competitive, smug, gossip riddled atmosphere at the other gyms. I don't understand why. That's just my opinion. And really, who gives a shit? If you're competing...on plastic...when it's NOT a comp...you need to reassess your climbing values. Climbing is just fun. Gossipy bullshit isn't fun. And you should remember that you're just spending time trying to get your sorry-ass up a rock, in the woods, in the dirt (or in a gym with other fools talking about how you've done one problem outside, but there's no evidence and your actions don't back up your claim). You're not badass, you're not cool, and no one but other climbers (which is a very small percentage of the world) gives a shit about your hardest send.

Or spot for the matter.

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