Carlo on Jade

Carlo Traversi sending Jade on Deadpoint

The video from Carlo is up on Deadpoint. I high recommend you watch it. The send it cool, but he weighs in on his opinion about the current issue of grades and the direction that grading has taken us, as climbers, towards.

Thank you.

Inside my head

Do I care? What do you think? (photo: Eric Sanchez)

I have ideas and thoughts which have trouble becoming realities. But I don't mind that. I'm more entertained by the thoughts in my head than the distractions of my generation. I just need my space and my time. And climbing. Lots of energy devoted towards this shit. I love this shit.

As of lately, there has been very little to almost no outside climbing in my life. Im not psyched on Mortar Rock and don't drive. Boo-boo-be-boo. I need to get to Castle Rock before the heat and bugs make the place almost unbearable and the holds gets slimed in the heat and sweat of hands. Way Lake this summer, for sure. I also have bought the Washington bouldering guide book and the new color filled Bishop Bouldering Guide. It got me psyched to get my sorry ass out there this winter and finish up things. There's two things in my head that determine if I give a shit about your send.

#1 I like you and am friendly with you

#2 You're friendly with me

If you don't fall into that category with me (if you read that and had to think if you did, then you don't), then piss off ya wanker. You're words of you're hardest send, or you spotted so-and-so on this problem and blah blah blah fall on deaf ears. I do not, care. You're spraying to the wrong person.

Also, if this seems like Im turning down a negative path, I'm not. I'm just getting my rants and whining out here where I can. Free speech motherfuckers!

Carlo Traversi

(photo courtesy of Spot Setting Blog)

Carlo Traversi.

Remember this name cause he's gonna be fucking the face of climbing. Already has been. Easily in my Top 5 favorite climbers. I've competed in the youth comps and he always smoked the field. Him and his brother Giovanni. "Why are you giving him props? What has he done?" He's done more than you will that's for sure. Black Lung, Circadian Rhythm, Jade...so many boulder problems. And routes as well. He's also one of the nicest motherfuckers ever.

EVER.

So all you Bay Area clowns who think they're badass, FUCK YOUR FACE!

Exactly what I think

Tuesdays are setting days. They follow stripping nights. Yes people, I strip and screw for a living.

But today was really fucking good. Dylan debuted setting. And he KILLED it. His routes are really good. Despite the loathing he projected towards one problem which turned out being really good and pissing people off with the fact it's a sit start and we haven't done sit starts ever, I enjoy climbing his problem. His potential is unlimited. I hope he continues working with us. It was a refreshing change of style. My buddy Will (whose out due to pulley injuries)said "There's not one problem on there I wouldn't do. They all look amazing." If you can make the injured psyched to recover faster, then you're doing something right, right?

Overall, the day turned out good. And I'm psyched to be setting again.

I'm psyched that my jump start/stand-up-to-the-start problem turned out how I imagined. I'm getting better at working out my ideas for setting onto the wall. Not thinking too hard about it. I feel that overly thinking about a certain moves tends to botch the rest of the moves. I really enjoy working my weaknesses out in climbing. Slopers, pinches, underclings, dynos...that's what plastic pulling is for me. That's just one little aspect of climbing rocks. Climbing in my eyes is about finding something that challenges you and pushes you to the limit, where you have no other choice but to go further than you thought and not limit yourself. If you're weak on jumps, get better at them. If you're weak on big moves train yourself to get good on them. Don't say, 'I'm not good at jumps so I'll never do them' or 'Dynos are fucking dumb. Why would you ever do one?' or some bullshit like that. That's just one more limit on yourself you're implementing.

If you like to limit your potential, sucks to be you.

Then again, I don't really care if you limit yourself or stay in your comfort zone. It doesn't affect me does it?

Fucking your face, one post at a time

Chris Bloch putting the finishing touches on his V7

Saturday was my full on rest day. After five days of climbing (with a semi rest rest day between days three and four), I'm feeling it. The muscles being sore, the fingers are sore, and it's all good too. I'm not complaining about it; far from that. I actually enjoy this soreness. I enjoy it when my body is so worked from climbing that all I find acceptable to do on a rest day is to sleep. But knowing myself, I can't do that. I have to do something. I have to get my sorry-ass out of bed and the house. But I really didn't do that plan at all. I ended up sleeping half the day (which felt fucking amazing to do).

Lazy ass...

Sunday I went back to Bridges. I'm slightly focused on doing this one problem in the cave right now. Its teaching me how to not lose focus and become bored, like I have in the past. Each time I try it I get closer and closer to linking it together. Whoever said inside didn't do anything or teach you new skills is full of themselves (and full of shit). I had to conjure up some new beta because I couldn't even come close to the intended way with a toe hook and some trickery. I couldn't even touch the move. So instead of becoming frustrated and swearing off the problem, I looked at this other possibility that I think Cyril did where you end up facing outwards and do a 360 rotation off a two finger pocket. Everyone who heard me explain it doubted it. That was until they saw me execute the move. I can't wait till it pieces together. It's taught me to keep patient which will help me outside a lot this coming year.

Will Rathvongsa

I really would love to go to Washington State and sample some boulders up there. Perfect looking granite blocks. I'd also like to go to Smith Rock this year, but I need to dedicate more time and energy to keeping calm and not freaking out when I fall. I've been getting better. Though some days, I just want to let it out and scream, "FUCK!" But I can't do that. That's pretty fucking weak man, you know? One other thing I've done this past winter is let go of being ultra competitive. People who climb here at Bridges Rock Gym aren't competitive; where as I feel a competitive, smug, gossip riddled atmosphere at the other gyms. I don't understand why. That's just my opinion. And really, who gives a shit? If you're competing...on plastic...when it's NOT a comp...you need to reassess your climbing values. Climbing is just fun. Gossipy bullshit isn't fun. And you should remember that you're just spending time trying to get your sorry-ass up a rock, in the woods, in the dirt (or in a gym with other fools talking about how you've done one problem outside, but there's no evidence and your actions don't back up your claim). You're not badass, you're not cool, and no one but other climbers (which is a very small percentage of the world) gives a shit about your hardest send.

Or spot for the matter.

I don't want to beat around the bush

Today was my rest day from a three day bouldering binge. The three factors (in my head) which let me climb three days on were as follows:

• I forgot about climbing on Sunday
• I forgot the day of the week thinking I was a day ahead
• I was excited to finally be able to do the hardest moderates we have in the gym as training, by any means necessary.

There was Rowans red problem that snakes from the left most corner to the middle of the roof. It feels harder than the posted (and my hands off that they refuse to grab the holds. Dumbfuck muscle memory). I did the problem only to ask why do I feel like a punter and feeling weak. In my head it was only my second day on. Was I that bad? Then someone told me it was Tuesday, not Wednesday. I was a day a head in my mind and forgot that I climbed on Sunday.

Dumbass...

I felt like a punter even more cause I was getting angry which I've been working my ass off trying NOT to do. I find it's easy to give up and be angry. I have no good reason, just a bunch of excuses (which everyone has).

After I rested, and yet still felt pumped to all hell, I jumped on Bloch's orange seven. It took me a good five tries to put it down. On the last try everything was tips, barely. I was that pumped. Stupid pumped. Hopefully I can translate this training and mental training of not getting angry to outside.

That's the goal right? Guess it's time to get my sorry-ass out again.

The weekend...in a nutshell

Where to begin? Well for starters, my back feels loads better than previous days. I'm still not gonna press it by climbing tomorrow. I did get out to the Mission for a Five Ten shoe demo to try on sizes for shoes I would like to order. I wasn't there schmoozing it up like some people I saw. Get in, get the sizes, say hi to Dave K (the rep) and Steve, and get the fuck out of there. It was way too hot for anything in there. How can you climb in an oven? I don't know. But the routes looked really cool. The bouldering there looked like turds. It used to be rad back in the day like....the 90's. It was this rad cave that was long and sick. The Presidio gym tried to reinvent the idea. It's not as good as the original (then again, you can never top the first of anything unless it sucks so bad). Anyone whose been climbing in the Bay Area knows what I'm talking about.

Anyways, I had to escape the madness of people there. It was so weird but every time I go there I get a weird vibe like I should not be here. So I walked back to the train. I feel more at home walking around downtown seeing homeless and buying them a meal at BK (king size that shit) than I do at Sweaty Pits (Mission Cliffs). Oh well. I'd rather take Bridges any day over that place. I even walked out one night after trying to warm up there and went to Bridges. Here are my reasons for leaving (like you give a shit, but hey you're reading so I might as well make this interesting...)

Top 5 Reasons for not bouldering in the Mission

#1 It's always way too hot

#2 It's almost always overcrowded with people

#3 Holds are over greased

#4 Someone is likely standing under you as you climb, creating a hazard; It's not their fault it's so tight and cramped up there

#5 Because it's not worth the $18 round trip fare on BART

There's my reasons. If you have a Top 5 something or other you feel is better (probably is) then leave a comment. Best one gets put up. You have until Friday fools.

Yesterday

The weather is so good right now. Outside is warm and the night time is prime for climbing. I'm trying to learn Final Cut but it is much more complicated than I imagined. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Possibly since I tend to do that (a lot). Learn from your mistakes I guess.

Indian Rock was fun. I go to see my buddies Will and Nick Ashley try something new than they never have before. Center Overhang. While only a three or four (who cares?), it's slightly committing. I say committing as in you're 10ft. off the deck with your right foot near your right hand. Somehow Will was able to get his fingers behind the left hand crimp creating a mini finger bucket, while Nick and myself have our sausage link type fingers on the top of the hold. It bites a bit. There is a better hold six inches to the left but makes the move off of it longer and insecure...er. A lot of members at Bridges I feel try hard. Harder than most other member at other gyms in the Bay Area. I guess they don't really give a shit about sending hard and are actually having fun. Even when they don't send they're still having fun. I I get frustrated when I'm in pain and bouldering.

Since last Saturday i have had this knot in my back. I haven't really given myself a rest day or two to let it unwind. I've been climbing (and falling) and doing so doesn't seem to help it. It just seems to aggravate it more than I am comfortable with. I can't do big shouldery moves (at the moment) since it flares up (...fully flared). And I can't really try anything hard since I know falling is a process of trying new things and going for it. I did a problem last night after Indian Rock that Cryil set that was really good. A little bit heady, but really well set movement. I fell at the crux and my back was screaming, "YOU FUCKING IDIOT!" You know when you should stop because you're in pain but somehow you're stupidity takes over and you keep going? I knew I should have stopped. I already planned to take two days off in my head so it was my final try to put it down (so I can come back later and do 4x4s on it). Last attempt I put it down, with little ease. It felt hard the whole way through And then I took my shoes off, knowing I had two days off and if I tried anything else more I'd be bitching even more than I already am.

I don't need anymore pain in my life from bouldering.

But enough about my complaining sorry ass.

Thanks for reading.

Thursday

It's so close to Friday. Oh so tantalizingly close. That means all the kids will be out of school for the weekend (little bastards), running around the city and streets. I guess that means I'll be up in the hills climbing.

I need to get some Mortar footage so I can start learning to use Final Cut Express 4. So psyched I was finally able to upgrade from iMovie. Good bye cluttered editing space on a 13in display. Hello 27in display. Yes, it's that big. Enlargement without the use of pills,

Anyway, I also get to go back and repeat some cave climbing tonight since I got spanked like an ugly step child last night. I think I should aways have some food before I climb at night. Or anytime. Not a meal, but enough to get me through without getting frustrated. It was the first night in a long time I have grunted on moderates. I felt like an asshole. Oh well. Shit happens. I'm only human right?

Right.

No mercy in this dojo

We set some new problems on the south boulder yesterday, V0-V8. Wow. I believe that the quality of our route setting has improved ten fold this past year. We all have our good and not as great as they could be problems, but that's part of the job.

Our cave routes turned out really good despite a lack of bolts. Our new problems turned out BANGING. I'm talking real boulder problems. Not mini routes, REAL ass boulder problems. Something you might have to thug through. No mercy in this dojo, no mercy.

I'm excited for this two week break and the training oppurtunities I will have. As well as going outside to Mortar. I really should do something there. It's been a full year since I've sent something out of slight seriousness there. Speaking of training, I use that word loser than the women in Vegas soliciting on the corner. What I do mean is that I 'll get to repeat problems in Bridges and get outside. Castle Rock anyone?

Anyways, there is a Five Ten demo happening at Mission Cliffs (Sweaty Pits, Fish n' Chips, Missionary Cliffs...) this Friday. I'm psyched to go to find out my sizes for shoes. I'm psyched to get some more shoes to climb outside in and grain in. My Mocs are incredible in the cave at Bridges. I can keep my feet on. It's good footwork training. I always try to think my footwork isn't the best and try to focus on it when roof climbing maybe it's working. Or working my core even further. Who knows?

a short one

Hopefully you saw the new short I posted. Yes the editing on my footage was thrown together very quick and sloppy (I should have paid more attention, next time). Scott's footage was already done since November so I had time to make it good.

Getting Final Cut Express 4 for the home computer (not my MacBook). Hopefully this will make editing more fun and less cluttered on the screen than iMovie on this (MacBook). Even with a mouse it is slightly hard to get what I want. Small step up. Well, instead of editing on a 13in screen I'll be working on a 27in display. Bigger is better in the case for editing, in my opinion.

Climbing wise here's the breakdown:

Cave at Bridges got reset last Tuesday and we are resetting the BS (backside aka BS as in BS Noseslide...OK you get it) of the South Boulder tomorrow, stripping it down tonight. The cave is REALLY good for having less problems due to less bolts. It's a challenge, but we like a little challenge.

More to come this week. Also, I'll try to give updates on the week, and not during the weekend as it is time to get outside now that the weather is fucking amazing and nice.

Thanks for reading!