Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Valley 2010 from Wes Miraglio on Vimeo.

A quick one

I am in the process of editing some footage I have from Yosemite of Scott Cory and myself into a little dose. I mean SMALL as in two problems each for us. I should have that done by Friday and up on Vimeo.

As for today, I worked setting some routes at Bridges in the cave. Holy shit....they're good. Hard, but good. Come in if you're in the area. As in, the Bay Area. Bridges, because the setters aren't pussyfooting around.

Top Five

Top 5 things that can make or break a trip to Yosemite Valley (...maybe)

#1 Tourists stopping the middle of the road while driving to take pictures of big rocks and water.

#2 Rangers (Clay you know what I'm taking about).

#3 Limited parking

#4 Lurkers

#5 They're so many positives about Yosemite and the climbing and beauty of the place easily overpower theses four things so really nothing.

Tick Marks

(photo from Nina Williams tumblr)

DON'T DO IT FOOL!

Goal post ticks, arrows, fat lines...STOP THIS SHIT!

If you need to tick a hold to see it, use a dot of chalk. Less chalk usage for starters. And it comes off the rock quicker than a dress on prom night.

Highlining at Bridges

My buddy Ben Eastman (aka The Claw) and I walked the Bridges highline first try both ways one night.

The walk back. It's 14-16ft off the deck.

Alex Fritz

(photo from Alex Frtiz's blog)

I met this kid about...three years ago. To me, he was just another punk kid who was decently strong at climbing. He's still a punk, but he's grown up a bit more. Probably taller too. I don't see him that often since I aged out of youth comps (I should go to a Circuit comp in Portland or better yet, just go straight into Washington for one).

Disciples Of Gill showing

This film will be showing at Bridges Rock Gym next Thursday April 22. The price is $10 for adult and $7 for kids. Presented by Pat Ament. John Gill was the forefront of bouldering as it's own discipline. Bouldering was regarded as "practice" for bigger walls. John Gill, father of bouldering as we know it as an outlet.

You should come. No. You NEED to come to this movie. If people don't understand the past, how are we supposed to progress into the future?

Check out Bridges Rock Gym for more details and directions.

Thank you.

Another Five

Top 5 things that make me angry

1. Stripped holds
2. Assuming my position behind the wall
3. Falling on the last move in the cave
4. The rain
5. T-Nuts

Clay Usinger

When my buddy/coworker Clay Usinger comes back from Moab, UT I'm gonna see if he remembers the voice he used to do this in and get in a clip and post it. It made us al laugh incredibly hard yesterday.

Top 5

I've been thinking about how many Top Five things I have. Songs to climb to, annoyances on the BART, people that can pull down off the couch, etc. It's almost as if I can think of five things and put them down in a top five.

I got the idea from CRAILTAP. They do a Traditional Top Five, a Mini Top Five, and a Traditional Mini Top Five which they post on they're side bar on the website. I don't really skate much since I don't have a board or the cash as of now to buy one (but Girl and Chocolate have sick graphics).

But they inspired me to do those three things I mentioned (two are linked, go check them out).

Here is a Traditional Mini Top Five for today, since the weather put the smackdown on me and climbing outside.

Top 5 things that bum me out

1. The rain when I want to go outside climbing.
2. Anger. I'm over being angry.
3. No coffee in the mornings.
4. Less than four hours of sleep before work
5. Scumbags. True scumbags treating people like shit.

Personally, I think it's kinda cool. I'll try to have more up.

Joe Kinder

(photo courtsey of goryonline.com)

aka Joe Kindkid aka badass aka BAWSE! Just wanna give a quick happy birthday shout out to someone who gets me psyched to climb. Happy birthday fool!

Rest week

Shannon Moore plastic pulling

The last couple of days have been better than last week. For sure. I went to Indian Rock up in the hills Thursday afternoon. It's pretty hard for myself to get psyched up there. But watching people just climb and have fun was enough motivation for myself to get up there this Sunday for a little bouldering. I want to repeat the classic Bubble problem. I haven't touched it in years. And it felt hard when I did it so I wonder if it'll still feel as hard or better now that I'm a little bit taller and stronger (still not a baller).

But today has been spent pretty much like every other day and filled with climbing. I'm pretty psyched to head to Yosemite. Hopefully get on some things I haven't tried yet. Still have a lot to do there.And I have seven things left (bouldering wise) here at Oakland. Three new thing and four things in the cave. Every now and again my left elbow starts to feel like someone pulled my tendon and snapped it back like a guitar string. Slightly annoying, but nothing new. Thankfully it's not in an immense amount of pain. I'll be honest, I'm a bitch when it comes to pain. It's not fun times at all.

Wednesdays with

Me! What? You thought I was going to say Reda? Cmon man. Though you should go watch the new Wednesdays With Reda over at The Berrics. What's the matter with you?

I have not been doing much as yesterday was a rest day. Monday worked my arm bouldering. Oh well. Did get to see my friend, Ben Polanco (the Flea). Haven't seen that cabrón in a long while on a count he's just coming back from being broken.

Flea keeping up with his namesake and jumping far

And to keep things interesting, how about an ass kicking abs class tonight over at Bridges Rock Gym YEAH! i\I'm taking an abs class in hopes I can get better core(?) I don't know if it'll work but it seems to be better. I can keep my feet on better than before. If you're looking for better footwork and don't have patience for a footwork technique class, then come get your ass and ego handed to you at Bridges Core Class. Come one, come all. No meatheads and no crying.

Lately

Ok since it's been a while since a REAL post I'll give one.

I've been psyched to climb. Anything! Rocks, plastic, I don't care. I'm just psyched I'm able to pull. Some days are incredibly good. Everything flows and you feel on top of the world. No madness, no frustration. Ahh, the life...right?

Then the days where everything seems so hard and you're trying to figure out why you can't climb as good as last time. Or why you're getting frustrated when you haven't been in what seems like the longest time. We all have those days. Sometimes they happen more frequently than we would like. Today was like that. I had taken two rest days. One was necessary, but the other one was FUCKED. Completely unnecessary at all. I didn't eat much either within those two days so I think trying to climb with little energy didn't help at all. I couldn't figure out why I felt almost no pulling power at all today. Nothing. No will to pull, no grrr face, nothing. Complete BOLLOCKS. I then reminded my self two rest days and three meals within those two rest days are not ideal. Oh well, what can you do? I really have no one to blame but my laziness and lack of appetite. Thanks to those two things, YEAH!

Tomorrow is another day. Hopefully this rain stops. I'd like the good weather back please Captain Planet. So please, stop pissing rain and get to work on drying up.